Spa day

I woke up at 6:45 in Burgos and studied my map. I decided on Hontanas, 19.6 miles west. There’s a nice hostel there for €15—and for another €15— access to a heated pool with massage jets, and a steam room. It sounded far better than any $30 budget motel I’ve stayed in. I left town around 8:20, passing the Burgos Cathedral and shuttered shops while cafes were jammed packed with pilgrims.

The weather was perfect for my sunburned skin: overcast skies blocked the sun without threatening rain, and temperatures stayed around 60°F.

After seven miles, I reached Tardajos and stopped at a pharmacy to buy sunscreen. There, I met Michael, an Australian who owns an 8,000-acre farm near Perth. He and his friends hike a new trail each year, and this time they chose the Camino. I picked his brain about the Bibbulmun Track, a 650-mile trail in southwest Australia that runs from Perth down and around the southwest coast to Albany. He assured me that emus and kangaroos aren’t threats to humans, crocodiles stick to the north, and snakes are rarely aggressive. Great white sharks, he added, will kill you, but attacks are uncommon. I forgot to ask about dingoes.

Six miles later, around noon, we arrived in Hornillos. A brief rain shower ensued, sending pilgrims into shops and albergues along the main street. Michael and most others opted to stay, but the spa in Hontanas kept me moving.

The final six miles brought two short storms—cold rain mixed with light hail. Each time, I pulled on my poncho, only to stow it when the skies cleared.

I reached Hontanas by 3 p.m., checked into the Santa Brigida albergue, and headed straight for the pool.

On the menu for the evening was paella, so I grabbed a bocadillo, chips, and a KitKat from the bar instead, called it a meal, and settled in for the night.